San Telmo, one of the oldest neighborhoods in Buenos Aires, is home to many antique shops, art galleries, and tango shows.


Its sometimes-less-than-pristine buildings, cobblestone streets and street art exude a gritty, bohemian vibe.
During weekdays shoppers and residents bring a quiet hum of activity. On Saturday the action picks up. Every Sunday is a massive party stretching for blocks as the streets fill with vendors, performers, and tourists.
And we do love a good party, so off we went to check it out. đ


When we arrived late morning the festivities were already in full swing.
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Colorful crafts of all sorts beckoned. Yerba mate (mate is a caffeinated drink adored in Argentina and nearby Uruguay) cups, handmade change purses, and guitars. Plus some, um, âinterestingâ masks.
  
And of course, tango. Nothing says Argentina like tango, right? Well, maybe delicious steak and Malbec, but thatâs another blogâŚ



The hub of all this activity is the actual San Telmo Ma...
âWhy does everybody keep talking about Christmas lights?â we wondered.
It started almost as soon as we arrived in MedellĂn, Colombia and went to the Visitorâs Center to get a map. Google Maps is an invaluable directional tool, but Cynthia has always loved a full-sized paper map.
âHow long are you going to be here?â the employee asked.
âUntil December 10,â we said.
âGreat! You must come to the river (the MedellĂn River runs through the middle of the city) to see the Christmas lights. Theyâre so beautiful!â
Gotta be honestâinitially we didnât share his enthusiasm. Cuenca also puts up a lot of lights along the Tomebamba River every year that are nice, but not remarkable.
It seemed like whenever we told someone our departure date, those darned Christmas lights would be mentioned again.
Finally, we went online to learn more. Turns out none other than National Geographic ranks the annual holiday lights in MedellĂn as one of the Top 10 most spectacular displays in the world. Who knew?!...
You may think of Colombia as a dangerous country filled with violent drug cartels. Had we made a huge mistake coming to MedellĂn, former headquarters of cocaine kingpin Pablo Escobar? That wasnât our concern.
We were worried about the weather.
We knew October was part of the rainy season here. Cuenca supposedly has a rainy season too, but since nobody really seems to know when it is we hadnât paid much attention.
WellâŚ
It was raining heavily the evening we arrived. Our ride from the airport in horrible traffic took twice as long as it should have. In the days that followed âifâ was not a question regarding precipitation. One was left to wonder only âhow muchâ (buckets) and âfor how longâ (almost constantly).
Fortunately, the pattern shifted to rainfall during most nights, and as of this writing in early December the weather is absolutely gloriousâsunny skies with high 70s during the day, mid-60s in the evening. And because MedellĂn sits near the equator at an elevation of almost 5...
Showing up in a new foreign city for an extended stay we always wonder, âWill we like the food here?â Actually, Edd thinks about that the most. đ
Since several meals a day are going to be consumed over a period of months, it is a pretty important consideration.

The Colombian peso is currently taking a beating versus the USD, so we knew before our arrival in MedellĂn that prices were going to be low. A welcome relief after experiencing the runaway inflation taking place in the States.
Note:Â When US$1 = 5000 pesos, transactions in this country involve a lot of zeros. For instance, a $500 monthly rent is 2.5 MILLION pesos! Believe it or not, once the shock value wears off, you get used to it.
âCheapâ doesnât necessarily translate to âtasty,â though (looking at you, cardboard frozen pizza).
No country can match the abundance of food in the States. Would MedellĂn restaurants have a decent variety of different cuisines? What about choices in the grocery store?
Weâve found itâs a bit...
Youâve read our sunny, cheerful blog posts about us visiting cool places and having wonderful experiences. Theyâre all true, but as much as we travel, itâs inevitable that once in a while a horrible day sneaks in there.
Like our recent travel day from Guayaquil, Ecuador to MedellĂn, Colombia.
It didnât start off that badly. Except weâre not in the habit of getting up at six in the morning. Weâd arrived in Guayaquil the night before from Cuenca, enjoyed a good (although short) nightâs sleep, and had an uneventful ride to the airport.
For some reason we couldnât check in online for our flight the day before. When we arrived at the Avianca counter we found out why.
âCan I see your tickets for leaving Colombia?â the agent asked.
âTheyâre not booked yet. We havenât finalized plans with our family to visit during Christmas.â
âYou both have to show a ticket to board this flight.â
âWhat are you talking about? Weâve been traveling full time for the last two years and no one has ever aske...
We were reading an interesting article with 5 secrets to living better and longer. Since our long-stated goal is to live at least 100 years, weâre always jonesing for any new tips that support our intention.
Turns out the revealed âsecretsâ were pretty much standard fareâexercise, eat properly in support of a healthy gut microbiome, reduce visceral fat to minimize chronic inflammation, avoid hazards around the house that you could trip or fall over, and be more sociable.
Doing all of these supports what scientists call âsquaring the curve.â Think of normal aging as a graph with a line going continuously downward as illnesses and injuries compound and life becomes increasingly miserable. Hopefully, that doesnât describe your own reality.
Instead picture that same line running along the top of the graph until dropping off at the very end, meaning you are healthy and active almost your entire life. How much better does that sound?
We were pleased to know about this research since our ...
We were chatting with one of our daughterâs neighbors who we hadnât seen in awhile.
She asked where we had been and where we were going next. When we told her she said, âWow, I wish I was you. It must be great to have such freedom.â
We replied, âIt is great. But weâve had to give up a lot to do what weâre doing.â
Our answer surprised her. âLike what?â she asked.
We explained that after more than a decade living in a beautiful penthouse apartment in Ecuador, all our furnishings are now in storage there. While we keep some seasonal clothing at our kidsâ homes, what we take from place to place are the contents of a roll-aboard and backpack each.
And as Edd told her, âYou know that tonight you will be in your own bed in your own house. Well into the second year of this nomadic lifestyle, we realize thatâs a luxury we hadnât considered. Itâs harder than you might think to constantly have to figure out the next place weâre going to sleep.â
Understand, we certainly werenât complaining. ...
Cynthia:Â Now that our European Magical Mystery Tour is over, letâs discuss what we liked and didnât like about each place we visited while itâs fresh on our minds.
Edd:Â We may not agree on this, but at the end letâs also rank them worst to best from a âretiring abroadâ point of view. Our first stop was Lisbon, Portugal.

C:Â Thereâs not much to dislike about Lisbon. Itâs beautiful. The weather was great. Prices are low. Public transportation was outstanding.
E:Â That last point is key when thinking about living there. The bus and metro systems are so well integrated, itâs easy and inexpensive to get anywhere in town. Trams and trolleys service the historic and hilly sections, and the train station for destinations outside the city is easily accessible.


C:Â Right. We were staying in an older area downtown. When we got together with friends who used to live in Cuenca, we were surprised their neighborhood was so modern and upscale. Even the grocery store close by was better tha...
Edd: After 2 ½ hectic months in Europe exploring four countries and five major cities, it was nice to spend a relaxing week with our son-in-lawâs parents on the southeast coast of England before returning to the States.


Cynthia:Â Such a lovely part of the world the villages and countryside of Kent turned out to be.



E:Â They are avid boaters, and what a treat it was to tag along for a trip past the famous White Cliffs of Dover. I even played captain for a few minutes.



C:Â You actually looked confident piloting the boat, and we somehow survived. It was fun to see France in the distance. Strolling around the charming little towns and learning some of the history was interesting as well.

E:Â Most of the buildings were so old. Heck, this inn opened its doors before our country was even discovered! Thatâs mind boggling.



C:Â Whatâs a visit to the English countryside without going to a castle? Luckily, several were nearby including Walmer Castle, built by Henry VI...
Special Note ~ How prophetic our blog about London follows the recent death of Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth II. Her lifetime of service is truly remarkable. We join the millions of people around the world extending our heartfelt condolences to the Royal Family.
Edd:Â London is one of the most expensive cities in Europe, so our week there wasnât a typical scouting trip to explore possible budget retirement expat destinations.
Cynthia:Â Youâre right. Our visits to both Paris and London were more of a 51st wedding anniversary gift to ourselves. đ



E:Â Which included a scrumptious lunch at Gordon Ramsayâs restaurant York & Albany beside The Regentâs Park.



C:Â While we were in the area we took the opportunity to climb Primrose Hill for a view of the London skyline and stroll through the Parkâs lovely grounds.


E:Â Weâre both fascinated with the whole concept of time, so a spontaneous excursion we took to the Royal Observatory in Greenwich was quite interesting. We once ...
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