Exceptional Experience: Are We in Love with Lima?

After months of research and planning, at the beginning of September we set out on a 3-week adventure to Peru. We had put off going there for years because of its proximity to Ecuador — adjacent to the east and south. Finally, the time had come to visit the home country of Machu Picchu we had heard so much about.

Our first stop was Lima, Peru’s massive coastal capital with a population of 11 million (roughly equal to Los Angeles).

We knew the country’s coastal areas were dry, but we weren’t prepared for the barren terrain seen from the plane as we approached the city’s brand-new airport.

Since we were only in town for three days, we booked a private room through Airbnb in a beautiful apartment in Lima’s most fashionable neighborhood, Miraflores.

Our choice was rewarded with an incredible view of the lushly landscaped malecón that runs along the cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean.

We like to join a walking tour in cities we have never visited to get an overview of the history and lay of the land.

Our tour focused on Lima’s Historic Center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We learned that while it is the unquestioned cultural, financial, and culinary hub of the country and was once one of South America’s most aristocratic cities, Lima currently struggles with urban congestion and wide economic disparities.

Who knew that a huge pre-Inca pyramid exists in the middle of Lima’s sprawling metropolis? Apparently not the local citizenry, because Huaca Pucllana sat beneath an enormous mound of dirt for centuries until archaeological excavations began only 40 years ago.

Photos cannot capture the size of this ancient complex. Our ticket included a guided tour that was absolutely fascinating.

We ended our visit at the excellent restaurant right next to the pyramid, where we sampled our first Pisco Sour cocktails and the renowned Peruvian cuisine. Artistically lit at night, the Huaca Pucllana ruins looked magical.

Lima's Larco Museum is the top-rated museum in South America and one of the best in the world. The tour guide pointed out some of the most important artifacts in the immense collection and the design explanations added so much to our knowledge of pre-Columbian culture. Once the tour ended, we had time to explore the galleries on our own and even wandered through the museum’s storeroom of treasures.

A delicious lunch afterwards in the beautiful on-site restaurant capped off a great way to spend the morning!

On our last day we took in the expansive views walking along the malecón in Miraflores where we stayed.

So did we fall in love with Lima? Not really. The food is outstanding, but we came to learn that was true everywhere we went. While the temps are comfortable, overcast skies persist for fully half the year and it basically never rains. There are only about four really nice neighborhoods and a lot of rough, dangerous ones.

But we loved our short visit, covered the highlights that we wanted to experience, and left with nothing but pleasant memories.

On to Cusco, gateway to Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley!