Expat Destinations: Why We Would Never Retire in Tulum, Mexico

Edd:  Since we were only in Tulum for four days and there were heavy rains a lot of the time, we can’t really give the place a thorough evaluation as an expat destination.

Cynthia:  That’s true, but we do have some snapshot impressions we can share. I think it’s fair to say when most people think of Tulum, they picture blue skies, crystal clear water, powdery white sand, and upscale hotels and resorts.

E:  Of course. Tulum has done a marvelous job of packaging its image as an eco-chic destination. But even though we were only there a short time, we quickly recognized there’s a night and day difference between the “hotel zone,” along the beach road, and the actual town of Tulum.

C:  It’s important for our readers to understand that throughout our travels we’re staying where expats might actually live, not in pricey vacation areas. And, boy, the Tulum we experienced was an eye-opener.

E:  I’ll say. As opposed to the yoga studios, high-end boutiques, and fancy eateries at the beach, the town’s main drag is lined with souvenir shops, tequila stores, and modest restaurants.

C:  And the neighborhood of our Airbnb a couple of blocks away was a mixed bag of nicer places like where we stayed and what most peeps would consider slums.

E:  We never felt unsafe, but I think “gritty” is a fair way to describe the area. After the clean streets of Mérida, the litter situation was certainly unexpected.

C:  So was the 15-hour power outage after one of those torrential downpours.

E:  Oof, with the oppressive heat and humidity that was terrible. Especially since for us, no power meant no water.

C:  Yeah. Our unit was upstairs, the water supply was at ground level, and a pump powered by, what else—electricity, was required to move it to the second floor.

E:  After suffering (and sweating) through the night when we lost power,  the following morning we got resourceful.

C:  Sure did. We grabbed our computers, walked into town, and set up shop in a trendy vegetarian restaurant.

E:  Ha. Digital nomads!

C:  Indeed. Slightly older than the norm but…

E:  We learned from numerous people we met that Internet and power outages happen frequently in Tulum. Wi-Fi is generally weak everywhere and on the beach road with the hotels and resorts, phone service doesn’t work at all! It seems that infrastructure hasn’t kept up with development.

C:  Yet growth continues anyway. Construction on a long talked about airport for the area may actually begin within a year. I can’t imagine how the current situation will be able to support it.

E:  Everyone we spoke with acknowledged the problem with a “what do you do?” shrug.

C:  Well, somebody needs to do something because what’s happening isn’t sustainable.

E:  Should we mention the “taxi mafia?”

C:  Why not? It’s a fact of life that the taxi owners won’t allow ride-sharing services like Uber in Tulum. We were told they’ve literally smashed windshields and beat up drivers who tried.

E:  The taxis aren’t metered and drivers basically charge whatever they want. It can cost $10 to go 2 miles from town to the beach during the day, and $25 for the same ride back to town at night.

C:  You really need some kind of personal transportation to live there, whether it’s a bike, scooter, or car. How would you sum up Tulum as an expat destination?

E:  Wow, of all the places we’ve traveled, the town of Tulum is the hardest one for me to figure out. Sure, all the luxuries of the hotel zone are nearby, but that expensive scene is not part of daily life for most expats. 

Hot and humid. Weak infrastructure. Basic goods and services only. So-so health care. Almost 2 hours from the airport. Not much to do. Yet the expats living there love it.

C:  Well, we always say expat life isn’t one-size-fits-all. Tulum certainly didn’t appeal to us, but for those who are looking for tropical weather and a laid-back lifestyle surrounded by nature, it appears to be a perfect fit.