Exploring Abroad: Is Lake Chapala the Expat Promised Land?

Cynthia:  We’ve heard a LOT about Lake Chapala over the years and were anxious to see for ourselves why it’s home to so many North American expats.

Edd:  Right. It’s estimated that out of a total population of about 50,000, there are between 15 and 20 thousand expats living full time in the town and municipality of Chapala, which includes the town of Ajijic. And that number swells to more than 30,000 in winter when the snowbirds show up!

C:  Those are remarkable statistics. We were so lucky to find an Airbnb right between the two places, which made for easy exploration.

E:  A duplex with a pool that we shared with the owners? Perfect way to end our Mexico travel adventures! 

C:  It was such fun to meet up with friends from Cuenca living nearby that were happy to show us around. We were incredibly grateful for their help since we didn’t have a car, and their perspective as residents was invaluable. 

E:  Sure was. We hadn’t thought about the logistics of lakeside living, but by definition it involves a main road circling the entire lake. Which means that, aside from your immediate neighborhood, without a vehicle your options for getting around are limited. 

C:  Especially, as we discovered, since there’s no Uber, taxis aren’t plentiful, and the public buses kind of show up whenever. 

E:  OK, so owning a vehicle is necessary. Not a positive for us, but we’ve learned that many expats enjoy having a car whether they actually need one or not. Beyond that, we found a lot to like about Lake Chapala, right?

C:  Yes. Starting with the weather, which is phenomenal. Mid 80s to low 60s year-round with low humidity.

E:  As usual I’m excited to talk about the food. So good and so cheap at local restaurants. And for preparing meals at home, the availability of what we as expats consider hard-to-find items was astounding.

C:  There’s a Walmart that wasn’t as nice as the one in Cancun but fine for staples. Then we found three independent grocery stores where you could find pretty much anything!

Not just a bottle of pure maple syrup. An entire selection!

E:  That may not seem like a big deal to our readers who are used to choosing from 50 different kinds of mustard at their local store, but it’s unheard of abroad.

Plus all kinds of imported wines.

Imported cheeses.

Even beautiful steaks. In addition to what’s there, we found out you can also place special orders. Incredible!

C:  Don’t want to dwell on food, but we should mention the weekly Lake Chapala Farmer’s Market that takes place every Tuesday.

Block after block of organic produce.

Fresh seafood.

And all kinds of other items ranging from nutritional products to local handicrafts.

E:  Whereas we loved the architectural charm of San Miguel, the natural beauty of Lake Chapala was visually pleasing in a different way.

C:  The well-maintained malecóns, or boardwalks were lovely. We heard so many opinions about the cleanliness of the water in Lake Chapala that we chose to do our own research. 

E:  Around 40 years ago the lake was indeed very polluted. But since nearby Guadalajara, Mexico’s second biggest city, depends on Lake Chapala as its major source of water, many steps have been taken since then to drastically improve water quality. 

C:  And interestingly, locals don’t even depend on the lake for their own households. Their water supply comes from deep wells.

E:  The expat community is so large at Lake Chapala that it's really easy to get involved. There’s even an organization founded over 50 years ago you can join called The Lake Chapala Society with tons of classes, groups, and activities.

C:  You can find yourself in the mix without even trying!

We went to dinner at a nearby restaurant and walked into a tango show in progress with a large, appreciative gringo audience. Who knew?? 

E:  Some people are interested in finding a foreign destination that’s an inexpensive version of life in the U.S. I think Lake Chapala is as close to that idea as any place we’ve visited in Mexico. Would you agree?

C:  I would. The cost of living is certainly low. The climate is terrific. Imported products are widely available. Almost everyone speaks English.

E:  There’s a cinema showing English-speaking movies, and we already mentioned a Walmart in the area. Less than an hour away, Guadalajara has a Costco, any other conveniences you’re seeking, and an international airport.

C:  No place is Shangri-la, and Lake Chapala does have its issues, mainly related to transportation. With only that one main road, traffic is always congested, especially on the weekends. And in the winter with all the snowbirds, we were told it’s downright horrible.

E:  Once you get off that major artery the secondary roads can be a mess. And since it rarely rains, those roads are extremely dusty. 

C:  Those issues aside, it’s easy to understand why Lake Chapala has appealed to Americans and Canadians for so many years. The area has a lot going for it.

E:  We wouldn’t be happy there because a) we have no desire to own a car, and b) it’s problematic to get around without one. But overall we give this top expat destination a big thumbs up! 👍