Expat Life: Holiday Magic in Medellín, Colombia

“Why does everybody keep talking about Christmas lights?” we wondered.

It started almost as soon as we arrived in Medellín, Colombia and went to the Visitor’s Center to get a map. Google Maps is an invaluable directional tool, but Cynthia has always loved a full-sized paper map.

“How long are you going to be here?” the employee asked.

“Until December 10,” we said.

“Great! You must come to the river (the Medellín River runs through the middle of the city) to see the Christmas lights. They’re so beautiful!”

Gotta be honest—initially we didn’t share his enthusiasm. Cuenca also puts up a lot of lights along the Tomebamba River every year that are nice, but not remarkable.

It seemed like whenever we told someone our departure date, those darned Christmas lights would be mentioned again.

Finally, we went online to learn more. Turns out none other than National Geographic ranks the annual holiday lights in Medellín as one of the Top 10 most spectacular displays in the world. Who knew?!?

So we made plans to go downtown and check it out. In the meantime, a friend sent a text that warned us to be prepared for the unofficial start of Medellín’s Christmas season on December 1. Huh? We’re not accustomed to getting Christmas warnings. Be prepared for what?

Well…

A controversial tradition of shooting off massive amounts of fireworks at midnight, known as the Alborada, began in 2003. Supposedly a celebration for the demobilization of a large paramilitary unit, the event was actually a show of power by an organized crime leader. Coincidentally, the first of December is the birthday of former drug lord Pablo Escobar.

Despite the dark origins, locals thought it was a fun way to kick off the holidays and the practice has continued ever since.

Sure enough, right on schedule we were abruptly awakened when all hell broke loose. Fortunately, since personal fireworks are illegal in Colombia and most were homemade, the ruckus didn’t last too long.

The official beginning of the season is on December 7, a holiday known as Día de las Velitas, the “Day of Little Candles.” Throughout the city, luminary candles are set out on sidewalks and balconies to honor the Virgin Mary.

Our Airbnb host, who lived in the same building as the unit we were renting, invited us to join her family outside that evening for the event.

What a surprise to find out this is much more than simply lighting candles. It’s a BIG party that went on until late in the night, with food, beverages, music, smiles, and laughter. Family members from all over had returned home for the holidays.

The next night we rode the bus downtown to see the display we’d heard so much about. Appropriately, the theme was based on the Disney film Encanto, an entertaining story about a Colombian family with special powers.

At the beginning of the spectacle was a re-creation of their magical home. Beside this were giant walls with doors you could walk through depicting each family member’s bedroom (this all makes a lot more sense if you’ve seen the movie).

Eighteen barges featuring different scenes and characters from the movie were positioned along the river, interspersed with floating decorations.

Along the path beside the river utility poles had been transformed into palm trees with all sorts of creatures perched on their trunks.

It seemed like the entire population of Medellín was there. Although the crowd was massive, we’re happy to report that everyone was in great spirits.

Of course, wherever there’s a crowd, you find vendors with all sorts of food to sell.

We arrived not really knowing what to expect, and everything about the holiday event—the displays, crowds, and food—was over the top. What a surprising and memorable finish to our Medellín scouting trip! 😀